Many of you have written to me asking where the rest of the blogs were, because I didn't really "finish" the journey from Chile to La Paz since I left out the last leg. I apologize to all of you who have been waiting patiently, so here it is.

It was a little tough getting started because, in order to avoid swinging around in the crowded bay of Puerto Ayora we had both a bow and stearn anchor out and another catamaran had come in during the night and laid his anchor line across our bow anchor line. We first had to get the stern anchor up, so as I backed the boat up using the motors to maneuver, Jay let out more line to the bow anchor until we were about over the stern anchor. Finally, Jay, Eric, and John were able to get the stern anchor up on the back deck while I held the boat in place and then we slowly motored forward until we could pull our bow anchor up. Eric Buxton and John Rohrback are the two new crew members from Seattle. Our friend Sven, who sailed with us from Valdivia, returned home to Chile on 11 July. We started out sailing wing on wing with the wind right at our stern using the screecher and the mainsail.
Santa Cruz Island is about 30 miles wide so we had to sail about 15 nm westward before we could turn northwest on a bearing that would take us between the east coast of Isabella and the west coast of Santiago. Once we got out of Puerto Ayora, we had about 14 knots of wind so we started letting out the sails. This was a training session for John and Eric, so Jay and I did most of the work and let John and Eric just watch while we trimmed the sails and set the mast foils. Escape loved being out to sea again and responded by giving us a smooth steady 8.5 knots in the direction we wanted to go using just sail power.


The equator crosses through the Galapagos at about the point where you see the hump on the back of the "sea horse's neck in the picture of the islands above so we brought out one of our best bottles of beer to celebrate. Jay and I had participated in an elaborate celebration on the National Geographic Ship Endeavor when we were in the Galapagos Islands in 2010, but this was a first crossing for John and Eric, so this was their initiation to become true "Shellbacks"—the title you get when you sail across the equator. As you can see we selected a big bottle of Austral beer that we brought with us from Valdivia and divided it among our four stainless steel insulated cups with a bit left over for Neptune so as to pay our respects and pray for his blessings. We had the beer ready as our B&G Triton display showed 00˚ 00.001' S latitude and a second later when it changed to 00˚ 00.001' N (see small pictures below) we tipped our cups and poured the rest to Neptune. We were still sailing with our large screecher sail up and making
pretty good time when we crossed the equator at 1756 hours and recorded it in the log. Around 1900 we took the screecher down because the wind shifted more toward the front. We sailed with the foresail and mizzen jib on a port tack until the wind changed again around 2100 and we had to go on a starboard tack. By 2100, we were well north of Isabella and heading more to westward at a heading of about 304˚. In the distance we saw two boats anchored along the north shore of Isabella. At 2350 hours, the wind died to 4.5 knots and we began motoring with the the sails up. Around midnight a light drizzle began, and the True Wind Direction (TWD) became extremely variable, with 180 degree swings so we furled the sails and just motored. Jay stood watch with John for the first hour and a half of his watch since this was his first night watch on Escape and he wasn't that familiar with all of the controls.
We motored all night at 2000 to 2200 rpm with one motor and then the other and maintained between 6 and 7.5 knots. At 0430 on the 13th the wind picked up to a consistent 9 knots so we raised the sails and motor sailed at 1500 rpm until 0530 when the screecher sail was raised and then we cut the engine. We continued sailing with the screecher and mizzen sail on a port tack with low winds around 7-8 knots for the first couple of hours but then it picked up to 12-14 knots. We took the screecher down around 10 AM to check for chaffing because we had loosened the halyard a few inches to allow more billow in the sail. There was no evidence of chaffing so we raised the screecher back up and deployed the fishing pole from the port stern. We sailed all morning with the screecher and mizzen sail in a port tack configuration. We had the screecher stretched tight rather than loose like in the morning and the halyard broke around 2 PM dropping the screecher into the ocean. We were going around 8 to 9 knots when the screecher halyard broke so it put a tremendous force on the bowsprit as it went under the boat and pulled down. We immediately furled the mizzen sail and stopped the boat and were able to pull the screecher back up on deck over the front cross beam. Fortunately, the bowsprit had not been further damaged. The True Wind Speed (TWS) at the time the halyard broke was around 12-13 knots and the seas were calm so we sailed the rest of the day with the foresail and mizzen sail in a port tack configuration. Later, the winds picked up to around 18-19 knots and we sailed all afternoon at 9.5 to 10 knots so we were making up some of the time we lost due to having to retrieve the screecher out of the ocean. At 1930 I put in one reef in the mizzen sail because there were gusts over 20 knots and the ride was getting rougher. The boat settled well with that one reef. We had been getting auto-pilot errors whenever we set the auto-pilot with the controller at the pedestal or whenever we changed the settings at the pedestal. Consequently, we replaced that controller with the one Navico sent us and we didn't have any auto-pilot errors after that. By 2100 the winds had died to around 17 knots so I let out the reef in the foresail. During this watch, we also had a snatchblock break. The bolt that holds the block to the latching mechanism broke so we put the Dynema chord around the snatchblock itself as a temporary fix. Fortunately, it was tied to the forward cleat when it broke. If it had been on the center cleat, the preventor line probably would have catapulted the snatchblock right through our big beautiful window along the front of the bridgedeck. Here's a picture of the halyard that failed. Obviously it was having serious chaffing problems.
On the 14th we continued sailing on a port tack with the foresail and mizzen sail and both mast foils engaged. The winds decreased to 12-13 knots but we were on a broad reach so we were still maintaining 8-9 knots until around 1130 when we lowered all the sails, stopped the boat, and sent Eric up the front mast using the foresail halyard to attempt to restring the screecher halyard. The seas had calmed and we were only making about 6 knots before we stopped the boat. Eric was able to get the halyard restrung, but we broke the black tensioning line on the mainsail halyard when we were trying to raise the mainsail back up. The black tensioning line broke up inside the mast, so I thought we were finished until we could get to port, but when I crawled down into the port anchor locker and looked up through the hole where the halyard was supposed to come out, I could see some strings from the tensioning line about a foot up from the hole. I was able to fish the black line out the bottom of the mast using some hooks I had in the tool box and then I put a series of prussik wraps around the tensioning line using some prussik lines I had from my Mountain Search and Rescue harness. We could only pull it about six inches to a foot at a time and then had to move the prussik, but eventually we were able to pull the foresail halyard back out the bottom of the mast and retension it. We did not try to fly the screecher sail again on the 14th because the cause of the screecher halyard failure had not yet been determined. Because the halyard was severely twisted when it fell to the bottom and inside the mast, I believe the problem was that when we tensioned the screecher and then tried to furl it, the fitting at the top could not spin and instead twisted the halyard.

Here are some pictures of Eric at the top of the mast, me in the anchor locker trying to retrieve the halyard tensioning line and the prussik arrangement I was able to get around the tensioning line after I fished a few inches of it out of the hole below the mast. Once we got the foresail back up and

We seem to be consistently using around 15 to 20 amps if the radar and all instruments are on and if the refrigerator and freezer both come on as they frequently do when we're in the vicinity of the equator. The fridge and freezer are clearly the biggest energy hogs on the boat and take about 7 amps each when their compressors are running. Remember, we have a 5 cubic foot freezer and 5 cubic foot refrigerator, so they require substantial energy. We were getting some power from our six solar panels, but not enough to keep the batteries charged and the wind

The winds stayed good to us all day on the 15th and through the night. They stayed in the high teens and low to mid 20's all day and all night and were favorable for us to be in a broad reach that whole time. We averaged over 9 knots much of the time with speeds up to 14 knots when surfing and 12 in gusts. In the morning of the 16th, the winds started being steadily over 23 knots TWS so we put in a reef in the foresail and one in the mizzen sail to quiet the ride. The waves were 8 to 12 feet high and choppy from the port aft quarter. Sometime during the night, a red footed booby landed on the boat


The rest of the afternoon was uneventful with light winds so we sailed and motor sailed close hauled throughout the afternoon and evening hours. We were able to charge the batteries and get the fresh water tanks filled so that was good, but we were a little worried about the amount of fuel we had because it was a long ways to La Paz still and we had to motor quite a bit of the time. We had about 50 gallons in the tanks on the 16th out of 94 gallons when they're full and we had 50 gallons in 5-gallon cans. We feasted that night on curried chicken and the Naan bread Jay and John had made.
On the 17th we kind of muddled along. Not much wind, and what there was came right on our nose so we continued to motor along at 4.5 to 5 knots on one motor. We had updated our long range weather reports with new grib files that we got over the Single Side Band (SSB) radio each day, but the areas we could get updates on are small compared to the longer range predictions we had and it seemed that the winds were coming from 90˚ to 180˚ away from where the weather reports and grib files were saying they would come from. So it was hard to really plan a better route based on the information we had. Since there wasn't much wind and the direction of the wind was unfavorable, we headed more northerly than we had been planning hoping that we would get into better winds or at least close on La Paz a little faster than if we went farther west before heading north.
The 18th was another bad day as far as sailing was concerned. The winds lingered between 3.5 and 6 knots all day and night so we had to motor sail to make any headway. We only went about 118.5 nm between 6 AM on the 18th and 6 AM on Friday the 19th. By early morning on the 19th we were within a few miles of our checkpoint on longitude 105 deg west where we hoped to head more northerly and pick up some winds later that day or the next. We planned to head toward the Socorro Islands and then dog leg back into La Paz.
Around 0935 we switched from the starboard engine to the port engine and when I checked the fan belt on the starboard engine it was severely frayed. Seems strange that it would happen after so few hours. I suspect that this engine had set in the warehouse for a long time and the belts just got old and brittle. After changing the fan belt, I concluded that the guy who designed that motor should be shot only after an appropriate amount of torture. Just to change the alternator belt you have to take off the water hoses
and it was really hot down there in the engine
compartment. Of course when you take the water hoses off, water runs out into the engine compartment too. Here's a picture of me changing the fan belt.
The sweet spot for these small Nanni Diesels seems to be around 2200 rpm. We tried various speeds vs rpm and looked at the fuel consumption curves and determined that 2200 rpm is about the best in terms of good speed with pretty good economy of fuel. We burned about 0.81 gal/hour while motoring after we left the Galapagos so these little Nanni Diesels are pretty sippy. We didn't have enough to motor all the way to La Paz, but hoped we would get some wind before we ran out of diesel.




On the 19th I made the crew pancakes, with fried potatoes, ham, and fried eggs, so they were well fed and ready to raise the screecher as soon as we got a few puffs of wind in the
right direction. We were fortunate to have good winds almost all day and sailed without engines from about 0900 to 1530. The winds got lighter around 1500 so we put up the screecher, but had to bear off to about 312 degrees to keep it filled. The screecher is good in light winds from about 90˚ off the bow to following winds, but it's not designed for sailing into the wind. At 1530 the winds died to around 1.5 knots so we furled the sails completely and started the port motor again. At 1657 the wind came up to around 10


I did laundry this morning, but as soon as I got it hung out we hit a squall and I had to take it in. We had put up the sails as the winds started to build, but the winds in the squall jumped to 25 knots in only a few seconds so we put two reefs in both sails. The winds died quickly though so we were able to take the reefs out in about 15 minutes and sail with just sail power alone and hoped it would hold so we wouldn't have to run the engines. At the rate we were going, we're anticipated reaching La Paz on the 26th of July. There was a pod of dolphins swimming along in front of the boat for about 15 minutes that morning but I didn't get a really good picture of them.
The rest of the day on the 20th was a pretty miserable day for sailing until late afternoon. The winds were so low we had to motor until around 1630, when we started getting 9 - 10 knots from the East. We put up the screecher and sailed 6-7 knots, but the wind was pretty far forward and it flapped a lot even when we fell off considerably to an apparent wind angle of around 145 deg. We sailed with the screecher and mizzen sail until dark and then lowered it down and put up the foresail. We had reasonably good winds all night and were able to sail between 4 knots and 9 knots SOG all night.
On the morning of the 21st the winds picked up even more and moved more northerly to NNE so we were sailing close hauled with winds that were getting up to 25 knots AWA. We reefed the mizzen sail for about 15 minutes, but then the wind started dying so we let out the reef again. The winds continued to fade until we were sailing with winds between 7 and 9 knots. About that time, a brown booby dove down and took our fishing lure, which is a small plastic squid. We turned the mast foils to act as breaks while we reeled in the booby. Spoiling the MFs dropped our speed from about 7 knots to 3.9 and then to 1.9. Being able to hold that red footed boobie in my hands and see him up close was one of the real highlights of the trip for me. He was a bigger bird than I thought he would be and he was very strong. As you can see, I was wearing gloves and I could tell that if he bit me without the gloves, I would have lost some skin. When I had extracted the hook from the

By 1000 on the 21st, the winds increased to 12-13 knots TWS and moved easterly. Our speed picked up to around 8 knots and we pursued a COG of 342 which is a direct route to the eastern part of the Baja southern tip. Here's what it looked like as we finally thought we were out of the Doldrums: http://youtu.be/aPRYr7MmGFw. John Yeaman, our buddy from Valdivia, said there was a low pressure area developing about 100 nm SE of us moving our direction at 15 mph. This may have been the leading edge of that low pressure area. By 1200 we had been flying along at about 8.4 knots with 17 knots of wind, then we hit a squall that went up to 31 knots in a few seconds. We reefed to two reefs in the foresail and about four in the mizzen and freewheeled the mizzen MF. We were still going about ten knots. The winds quickly died to 19 knots so we let out a couple reefs on the mizzen. Here's a link the the movie I took during that squall: http://youtu.be/k1faBgk1r_4. The winds continued at around 15 knots for the rest of the day. The sea state was a bit rough and the crew enjoyed riding along up by the bow as the boat bucked over the waves. Here's a movie of the crew "riding the bow" as it bucked in the waves: http://youtu.be/y00Q8VakCgc. Around 1745 a very sudden squall came up and we raced out to reef the sails. We all got drenched so after the squall we all took showers, and noticed that during the squall the fishing line got tangled in the port rudder. We furled the sails and freewheeled the MFs to stop the boat and Jay and Eric went in to untangle the fishing line. John jumped in too to see how it looked with a mask on.

dropped a bottle over the side with our e-mail addresses and the message, "The best investment man can make is putting milk into babies" (see picture of John dropping the bottle below). Later in the day we caught a second Brown Boobie, this time just by getting his wing tangled in the line. Eric grabbed him by the neck as we reeled him in and he got close to the boat, untangled him and threw him up in the air to let him go.

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Land Ho! |
Land Ho! At 0921 on the 24th at 22 43.000N 109 07.800W we spotted the southern tip of Baja exactly on the azimuth we were expecting to see it. What a fantastic feeling! We started the starboard engine about 1030 because winds had dropped to around 3 knots. Around 1600 we put up the screecher and configured the mizzen to a port deep reach. The TWS was around 11-12 knots and we were maintaining 5.5 knots SOG along the eastern edge of the southern tip of the Baja peninsula. We put up the cockpit bimini to protect us from the relentless sun. It's really hot and humid here. At 1744 we started the port engine and furled the screecher. The winds had dropped to <6 knots and we were just going 3.9 knots. At 1824 we put the screecher back up because the wind had picked up to 12-13 knots. We were only going 5 knots because we couldn't get a good reach angle on the wind until we could pass Puenta Arena and head more westerly. This was a very enjoyable part of the voyage for me. We were going along a lovely coast, with occasional lights from a village or a light house, with no engine noise—just the sound of the wind through the sails and the water flying past the hulls. Sitting out on the trampoline and watching the land go by was very pleasant. Here's a picture of me and Jay enjoying this "last night" at sea before we reached La Paz. At 2030 we had to take the
screecher down again as the wind had dropped to 3.5 knots. We started the Port Engine and we were just to the east of La Ribera and Buena Vista on the east coast of the Baja Peninsula (you can check those places out on Google Earth). The wind came up to 15 kts as we passed Ensenada de Muer, sailing close hauled at 10kts, we adjusted our heading to 308˚ past Punta Arena on a reach with 16kts of wind and making 11kts SOG. We then beared west to 297˚ after Punta Arena at 8.5 kts SOG. At approximately 0145 all of our instruments went blank. Nothing to worry about, right? We're just sailing along at 11 knots in the dark near the peninsula on one side and approaching an island with a rocky reef sticking out to the south in front of us. A hard reboot of instruments seemed to bring everything back to normal. We sailed under sail power until about 0730 when we passed our Mark 14 and headed south toward La Paz. For a while we could sail close hauled as we rounded the entrance into the La Paz bay and in this movie you can see the La Paz finger to the port side of the boat and Isla EspĂritu Santo on the starboard side: http://youtu.be/KiV3FBXoqRM. We had strong winds around 23 knots and were headed right into the wind as we headed more to the south so we furled the sails and started both engines. We were making about 6 knots with both engines at 2300 rpm. We arrived at Marina Cortez around 0945 and got tied up to the dock around 1000. It was a fantastic journey, but I was glad to be tied up to the dock. In the next blog, I'll tell you more about La Paz and then we'll go explore some of the local islands.
screecher down again as the wind had dropped to 3.5 knots. We started the Port Engine and we were just to the east of La Ribera and Buena Vista on the east coast of the Baja Peninsula (you can check those places out on Google Earth). The wind came up to 15 kts as we passed Ensenada de Muer, sailing close hauled at 10kts, we adjusted our heading to 308˚ past Punta Arena on a reach with 16kts of wind and making 11kts SOG. We then beared west to 297˚ after Punta Arena at 8.5 kts SOG. At approximately 0145 all of our instruments went blank. Nothing to worry about, right? We're just sailing along at 11 knots in the dark near the peninsula on one side and approaching an island with a rocky reef sticking out to the south in front of us. A hard reboot of instruments seemed to bring everything back to normal. We sailed under sail power until about 0730 when we passed our Mark 14 and headed south toward La Paz. For a while we could sail close hauled as we rounded the entrance into the La Paz bay and in this movie you can see the La Paz finger to the port side of the boat and Isla EspĂritu Santo on the starboard side: http://youtu.be/KiV3FBXoqRM. We had strong winds around 23 knots and were headed right into the wind as we headed more to the south so we furled the sails and started both engines. We were making about 6 knots with both engines at 2300 rpm. We arrived at Marina Cortez around 0945 and got tied up to the dock around 1000. It was a fantastic journey, but I was glad to be tied up to the dock. In the next blog, I'll tell you more about La Paz and then we'll go explore some of the local islands.